'Tis the Damn Season
I became a new Taylor Swift fan last year. The release of Midnights brought Swift off the radio and into my headphones. Slowly, I added Reputation, then Lover, then Folklore, Evermore and eventually the rest. The slow burn of adding one album and then another and another to my regular rotation was surprising. I was shocked to discover not only how much of her music I already knew, but how it all stitched together and made something for every season of the year and season of life. This music I thought I knew, was unchanged, but something else entirely.
As I listened, I began to recognize her lyrical patterns, words she uses on every album, metaphor structures repeated and rewritten and improved over the course of her career. One perspective is that Taylor Swift is not very creative, not the masterful writer that some claim her to be, but repetitive and basic. My perspective is that she is obsessive about a certain form of expression, that she is indeed, improving and developing universal stories, layering her life experiences into increasingly complex stories and lines. Swift is not the best singer, or dancer, or musician, or poet -- she is ultimately very basic (and at times, offensive) -- but somehow the combination of simple melodies, simple stories, and simple presentation, makes something with universal and lasting appeal. She is both the blank space and the mirror ball that she sings about--she can fall back into a crowd or be the center of attention depending on what role she chooses to play in the story she writes.
In case the connection wasn’t becoming obvious to you, let’s just leap together: Taylor Swift is beans. Easy to set off to the side, but once it comes into your life at the right pitch, you’ll want it right in the center. Simple and constant, but meets your needs over and over again. So many people who don’t prefer beans mention the same few things: they are bland, boring, they are just a way to feel bloated and likely to stink up a room. But let me be the one to say, both beans and Swift grow on you and become not just comfortable, but comforting. A little steady exposure, a new outfit, some backup dancers are all just variety which allow for the main character to shine.
These Herby Miso hearty wonderful beans from The First Mess found me around the same time as Taylor Swift, and if I had to choose an era for these beans, it is Evermore. Wintery, cozy, nostalgic flavors with an unexpected pep among meditations on the grief inherent to growing up. I chose this era for these beans because of the time, the process, and the nourishing depth of the product at the end. The recipe layers simple pantry staples one by one, with some bonus elements that make it into such a compelling dish, you’ll make these even in the height of summer because it’s always the season for beans.
What “era” of Swift’s music, or even just what song you are listening to is a direct mood, a window into how you are--far beyond just “feeling 22.” Similarly, a special recipe evokes a very specific season, mood, or even need. These beans are cathartic. They made me want to cook more, enlivened me in the dead of winter, at a time when Evermore was easy to connect to, when I was really needing some energy injected into the table, which for me is another way of talking about “how I’m doing.” I stay connected to friends who live far away not just by saying how I feel or what I’ve been doing, but sending photos from my kitchen like they are songs. When we send photos of the pot of beans (or the big salad, or the perfect tomato) it isn’t just sharing a recipe, or an aesthetic, it communicates a mood, a feeling about the world, and hopefully a sign of wellness or at least awareness. Whether you communicate in Taylor Swift songs, pots of beans, or actual words, I hope you enjoy these beans--it’s sunny and smoky here in the bay area, but truly, Fall begins this weekend, ‘tis the damn season.
Herby Miso Beans -or, if you will- Evermore Beans
Ingredients
1 lb white beans, soak only if you are in a hurry
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 medium yellow onion, peeled and quartered (keep the root intact)
2 shallots, peeled and quartered (keep the root intact)
1 stick celery, chopped into 3-4 big pieces
1 bay leaf
5 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced
1 tablespoon thyme leaves, minced
1 tablespoon oregano leaves, minced
½ teaspoon smoked paprika
½ teaspoon ground chillies or chili flakes
6-12 cups vegetable stock (see notes)
sea salt and ground black pepper, to taste
1 ½ tablespoons light miso
lemon juice, to taste (I like 1-2 tablespoons)
handful of fresh dill or parsley, chopped
Instructions
Rinse your beans. Any white beans will do. I used Royal Corona beans because I had three hours and desire for decadence.
Heat a large, heavy-bottomed pot over medium heat. Once it’s hot, pour in the oil and let it spread out and get glossy. Place the quartered onions, shallots, and celery pieces into the pot. Let them brown on all sides until, should take 5-10 minutes.
Add the bay leaf, garlic, thyme, oregano, smoked paprika, and chillies. Stir and sauté until very aromatic, about 1-2 minutes. Take a photo, send it to your friend (me).
Add the drained beans and stir. Then, add 6 cups of vegetable stock. Season with a little salt and pepper (being mindful of the salty miso we'll add at the end--I often end up with very salty beans without adding much salt at this stage) and stir. Place the lid on top, slightly askew to vent a bit. Bring the beans to a boil for ten minutes and then lower the heat to a simmer.
Simmer the beans for about 2-3 hours, checking in on them every 30 minutes or so. If the level of vegetable stock is getting low, just add more by the cup. Keep the liquid just barely covering the beans to maintain a stew-like ratio of beans to liquid.
Fish out the big pieces of celery, bay leaf, and as much of the onion/shallots as you like (I leave most of them).
In a liquid measuring cup, combine the miso and a couple ladlefuls of the hot stock from the pot. Give the mixture a whisk to dissolve the miso and then pour that mixture into the pot. Stir. Check the beans for seasoning and adjust if necessary.
Important--do not skip this step: Add lemon juice to taste and stir. Garnish the beans with the chopped dill/parsley.
Serve the brothy beans hot with your favorite bread and extra black pepper on top.
Notes:
Add as much liquid as needed. Start with the six cups and keep adding just enough liquid to cover the beans. Also, the type of vegetable broth you choose will affect the flavor in fun ways—but you won’t go wrong. I used the Better Than Bouillon Seasoned Vegetable Base, which had a strong tomato flavor and gave the broth a deep color and another bright flavor.
Bring these beans to any party where you need to bring a dish. Baby showers included.
Add greens at the same time as the miso to make it a salad, allow to wilt as much as you like.
If you use dried herbs (thyme and oregano), cut the quantity by half.
If it wasn’t clear, this dish is the main dish.